From Green to Gold
Author: Jason Karl

There is no place that compares to the Gunks when the weather turns cool, and the leaves begin to turn. The dazzling display of fall colors provides an amazing backdrop to the exposed routes winding their way up the cliffs of the ridge. With the Shawangunk region hosting some of the most diverse deciduous forests in the world, it's easy to see why the autumn season is so popular with climbers, hikers, and "leaf peepers". Add those who flock to the ridge to watch Falcon, Hawks, and Eagles migrate, and you can see how the Mohonk Preserve and surrounding area can get a bit crowded.

Looking to avoid the crowds? While we can't keep people from flocking to the ridge, we can help you keep your sanity during one of busiest months in the Gunks.

1. Pay attention to color of the leaves.

The more vibrant the colors, the busier the weekend. That's a good rule of thumb to keep in mind when planning your itinerary. Check out a website that keeps track of the changing leaves like weather.com. The Gunks usually hits its peak towards the middle of October, but the exact date can vary from year to year. If it's peak season and you want to avoid the crowds, try some of our suggestions below.

2. Get out during the week.

Not everyone is fortunate to get time off during the week, but if you can, take full advantage of it. Even when the leaves are at their peak, weekdays have far fewer crowds on the roads and on the cliffs. Whether it's a vacation day, a half day, or a "sick day", you'll be rewarded with an experience you won't soon forget.

3. Parking fills up "early".

How early is early? That all depends on a number of factors, but in general, you won't want to risk arriving any later than 10:00am on a Saturday or Sunday. The West Trapps Parking Area usually fills up first with parking closer to the Visitor's Center becoming scarcer as the morning wears on. While it's not impossible to find a parking space on a weekend afternoon, you certainly will be in for a challenge or a long hike to reach the cliff.

Speaking of parking problems, you might want to consider carpooling if you're going up with friends. With the price of gas being what it is, it makes financial sense to share a ride up. It is also possible to meet up in New Paltz or a neighboring town and take only a single car up to the cliff. If you're early, this will save a precious space for someone else. If you're late, it'll be easier searching for a single space free than two or three.

4. Diversify your climbing options

Once you actually get to the cliff, you may find that it's more crowded than you expected. The Uberfall area can be a veritable zoo on a fall weekend. If you're looking to avoid such crowds, be willing to do some leg work to get away from them. Climbs further down the cliffs tend to be less crowded, but the classics will always have parties lined up at their bases. And don't just stick to the Trapps, there are other cliffs out there that always have fewer crowds.

Grab yourself a good guidebook and seek out some obscure climbs that often are just as satisfying as their more popular counterparts. Just because it doesn't have a star after it, doesn't mean it's not a classic. After all, this is the Gunks. Nearly every climb is worth doing.

Or there's always bouldering. If you didn't come to boulder and are having trouble getting on a decent climb, find a boulder and hop on. Even a crowded boulder is good enough. It may not be what you came for, but you can still get challenged and go home with a smile on your face.

5. Plan to leave early or stay later.

Traffic leaving the New Paltz area can be a nightmare. Often from early afternoon until late evening, traffic can be backed up throughout the town. Leaving early isn't always desirable because it means that you'll be missing out on a good chunk of the day. Leaving late is a better option if you have the stamina to make it work. Grabbing a bite to eat at the Brauhaus in Gardiner or at one of the many restaurants in town can buy you enough time to avoid sitting in traffic or at least break up the wait.

6. Don't give up on forecasted "bad" weather.

As we all know, weather can be a funny thing, but that's especially true at the Gunks. Sometimes the forecast will call for rain, and the cliffs will stay bone dry. Other times the opposite can happen. If you're desperate to climb, anything short of a downpour will keep you at home. Squeezing climbing in before the rain hits, or after it has stopped gets you out on days many will have written off. Even with a steady rain, there are options.

The Yellow Wall area is by far the most popular with climbs like the first pitch of Airy Aria (5.8) and The Sting (5.11+), but other more obscure options exist for those who don't need a "water tight" climb. I once climbed Feast of Fools in a steady rain, but I almost died and don't recommend it. What I do suggest is that you get out to the cliff and search for something that looks encouraging. If you're desperate, you'll find a climb and I guarantee that you won't have to deal with a crowd.

7. If you can't beat 'em, join 'em!

Sometimes you just can't avoid the crowds, or perhaps you want to take advantage of them. The Uberfall is the perfect place to run into old climbing friends, local legends, and interesting folk. I often find myself there for the simple reason that climbing is a social sport. It's great being around other people who are enjoying routes you've done, or want to do in the future. It's great to share conversations with fellow climbers about routes, beta, gear, or even where to get a good beer in New Paltz.

The Gunks is kind of like its own little city where it's easy to walk by others and not interact with them. Most other climbing areas don't have this issue (it's hard to climb at a local crag and not have a conversation with the party next to you). It's easy to overlook the benefits of having so many climbers in one place. I often find that when I make the effort to interact with those around me, I get more out of my climbing day. It's not only about the climbing, but the community that often goes with it.

8. Get up there!

There is no better season for a multi-pitch climb than the fall. With the colors blazing in the Hudson Valley below you can't afford not to. So save up your multi-pitch climbs for the autumn, and get in as many as you can. As I said before, the classics will always be crowded, but once you get up above it all the crowds seem to melt away. The exposure gives you the sense of isolation even if the wall is littered with climbing parties.

So enjoy it. Soak it all in. You won't be able to savor an experience quite like this till the next time the leaves go from green to gold.