5 Problems for Beginning Boulderers
Author: Jason Karl

Everyone's been there at some point in their lives. Whether they just discovered climbing, are recovering from an injury, or are simply looking for some fun relaxing problems, easy boulders can be found all throughout the Shawangunk ridge. Now, I know what you're saying, easy bouldering is an oxymoron. Bouldering is supposed to be strenuous, difficult, and powerful. While this is true, sometimes you just have to kick back and enjoy a cruise of some graceful stone.

I decided to evaluate what is available to the beginning climber and suggest a few problems that could make for an enjoyable outing. The climbs should be in the V0 range. Since they're being recommended for beginners, they should have relatively friendly landings. And lastly, they should be fun and worth doing again and again.

The obvious destination for a beginning boulderer would be the Carriage Road below the Trapps cliff. Being the most popular area, this is a perfect place to run into other boulderers. The Carriage Road also offers numerous landings that make spot pads more of a luxury than a necessity. Finally, the Trapps contains some stellar problems, and that after all is what we're after.

1. Boulder of the Gods V0
Boulder of the Gods is one of the first classic routes one encounters as they approach the Trapps from the steel bridge. The actual problem is a bit dicey for someone new to climbing, but this boulder also offers a good traverse that will sharpen the foot work. And with a name like this, how could you pass this one by?

 

2. Welcome Boulder V0
This aptly named boulder greets you as you stroll by on the Carriage Road. While the holds are a bit sharp on the hands of beginners, this chunk of stone offers tons of variations on positive holds. After you've tried the popular traverse, try a few variations that go straight up. It's hard to find a more friendlier top out than this one. The boulder literally dives down on the backside providing one with a secure top-out and a safe descent once on top. Once you feel your hands can't take any more abuse, continue on down the Carriage Road for some more finger friendly fun.

3. Doug's Roof Area V0
Just like the Welcome Boulder, Doug's Roof shelters a great traverse and a bunch of other variations to test your vertical climbing skills. Start on the right side of the route with big ledges for foot holds, then work your way left towards more challenging terrain. While you're in the area, feel free to try the right-most crack/flake. This fun little problem has the easiest descent of any of the other more challenging cracks beneath the roof. You can downclimb the problem itself, or just traverse right and down the easier terrain.

4. Warm Up Horizontal V0
This section is just left of Trashcan Overhang, and that's near the big box of rescue equipment in the Uberfall area. Like the problems mentioned before, there are lots of ways to climb this section of rock. The most popular is to begin on the left-most side of the horizontal where the holds are best. Struggle out right, paying attention to your diminishing footholds and your straining fingers. This climb is on the hard side of V0, but the hard moves are only a foot or two off the ground and the landing is solid. While it isn't considered a classic, it will test your strength and help you pay attention to your footwork.

 

5. Blasted Rock Crack V0
Now I won't recommend that you walk all the way down the Cariage Road just to climb this boulder, but if you're in the area you'll definitely want to give it a try. You'll find this boulder just left of the Boxcar Boulder. The crack on the left side will test your technique and strength. If topping out isn't something you're up to, you can traverse right across the face and onto a technical slab. Traversing back and forth is actually a great way to work your technique and stamina. Just make sure you have a decent spotter beneath you.

 

So there you have it, five problems that will have you bouldering with the best of 'em in no time. Well maybe not that quickly, but at least you're guaranteed an enjoyable day out on the rocks. The above problems merely scratch the surface of what is available for the beginning boulderer. Pick up a local guidebook, or just head out to the rocks. At the Shawangunks, it's hard to go wrong!

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